Colonial Elegance .
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Myanmar has a vibrant history that can
readily be traced through the country’s magnificent
architecture. The ebb and flow of power among ancient
kingdoms is illustrated by sites such as Bagan, Mrauk U and
Mandalay, each of which served for a time as the seat of
kingly power.
More recent history is no less stunningly
demonstrated by the architectural legacy of the colonial
era, a 120-year period ending with Myanmar independence in
1948."
Many of the structures built by the
British during this time can still be seen in cities like
Yangon and hill stations like Pyin Oo Lwin. Elegant homes
and monumental government buildings point to a yearning for
home and yet, with their frequent incorporation of local
design elements, a willingness among the British to accept
the influence of their temporary home in the tropics.
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Yangon
Yangon boasts one of the most extensive
collections of colonial architecture in Southeast Asia.
Grand colonial houses are hidden away in quiet, shaded
neighbourhoods throughout the city, while some sections of
downtown are densely packed with everything from modest
apartment buildings to monumental government structures
built by the British more than 70 years ago.
Some of the more eye-catching examples
can be seen along Strand Road. The Post Office provides a
rare chance to study the interior of a colonial-era
administrative building, while the landmark Strand Hotel,
built in 1901, is the perfect place for architecture buffs
to stop for afternoon tea while
taking in the sights of
downtown Yangon.
The centre of downtown is anchored by
majestic City Hall, designed by a local architect and
incorporating traditional Myanmar themes into its façade,
including floral motifs and mythical creatures. Such
buildings illustrate the surprising ways in which architects
combined British style with traditional Myanmar
sensibilities.
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Kalaw
This hilly town sits at an altitude of
1320 metres on the Shan Plateau, shrouded in cool air and
surrounded by pine forests, bamboo groves and misty
mountains. These elements surely contributed to its
status as a favourite hill station retreat for the British
during the colonial era.
European-style villas can still be
seen around town as a reminder of this time, and the old
train station evokes days gone by as well. Another landmark
worth visiting is the Christ the King Church just south of town.
Kalaw’s market is a good place to see
people of the Palaung, Pa-O and Danu ethnic groups, but for
full immersion it is better to visit their villages by
trekking through the region’s remarkably beautiful
countryside, which is home to hundreds of species of birds,
butterflies and orchids.
Also outside of town is the mysterious
Cool Water Lake, fed by a natural spring whose waters are
said to promote health and longevity in those who drink it.
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Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo)
Only 70 kilometres from Mandalay, Pyin Oo
Lwin offers colonial architecture, stunning mountain scenery
and moderate temperatures that promote year-round plant
growth, a combination that adds up to one of the most
uniquely picturesque towns in Myanmar.
Pyin Oo Lwin originated in 1896 as a
summer retreat for Europeans living in Mandalay, who built
Edwardian-style cottages that can still be seen today. One
example is Candacraig, a hotel described by Paul Theroux in
his book The Great Railway Bazaar. In the centre of
town is Purcell Tower, whose hourly chimes duplicate the 16
notes played by Big Ben in London.
Other sights include Kandawgyi National
Gardens, featuring exotic orchids and whispering pine
forests. Farther outside of town are Peik Chin Myaing
Buddhist cave complex and several waterfalls where visitors
can picnic.
Not to be missed during a visit to Pyin
Oo Lwin is a ride in the local horse-carriages, which look
like brightly painted 19th c c century stagecoaches
and provide an enjoyable means of getting around town to see
the sights.
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